Reconsider Riesling — Food Friendly and Versatile

German Riesling has become known and acknowledged by chefs, food writers and everyday wine lovers to be one of the best, if not the best wine for pairing with all kinds of food. The reason is simple: the vibrant, fresh acidity and ripe, noble fruit qualities inherent in German Riesling are the perfect compliment to the widest range of cooking imaginable. In fact, the two components of this noble varietal, acidity and sweetness, are mirrored in the technique of chefs everywhere who use vinegar, citrus juice, as well as different forms of sugar and syrups to balance the flavors of their creations.

Riesling is especially suited to many of the world's most exciting ethnic cuisines. All Asian cooking, especially Chinese, Korean, Thai and Japanese are very compatible with German Riesling. The use of soy-based ingredients, fermented items, pickled vegetables, and highly spiced components in these cooking traditions demand the refreshing, aggressive flavor profile found only with the acid/sweet persona of German Riesling.

Indian food has a reputation of being one of the best partners for German Riesling. The use of fruit in savory/spicy applications such as chutneys and curries seems to compliment flavors and "mouthfeel" of German Riesling. Other vibrant world cuisines that have a great pairing with Riesling are: Caribbean, Mexican & Central American cooking, and "Southwestern" cuisine. The newest rage in our city of San Francisco is "Fusion" cooking, involving sometimes wildly creative blends of many of the above-mentioned cooking traditions, set in ultra-chic modern surroundings. This is a particularly great development for those who enjoy perfect food and wine pairings.

As far as western cooking is concerned, German Riesling is an excellent partner to any entrees where the use of fruit in a savory setting is featured. Think: Roast Pork loin stuffed with apricots, Venison with huckleberry sauce, or classic Duck à l'Orange. All seafood preparations are a sure bet with Riesling. The inherent sweetness of many crustaceans like crab, shrimp and lobster is echoed and made more interesting by pairing with Riesling, with its elegant, subtle sweetness. Food writers also have acclaimed Riesling to be the best possible wine to have with deep fried foods, whether it be Tempura, or Cajun beer-batter fried seafood. Smoked salmon, trout, and for that matter most brine-cured and smoked items are generally considered excellent with German Riesling: once again the salty, smoky, resonant aspect of these foods is well contrasted with, but accentuated by the crisp, chilled, ripe fruit of Riesling.

As you can see, there is a universe of cuisine that is highly desirable for pairing with German Riesling. In general, unless you're serving a heavy beef or lamb ragout, grilled red meat, or robust Italian tomato based pastas, you will find that as white wines go, you can do no better than German Riesling. Keep in mind also that Riesling wine features some of the lowest alcohol levels in the world of wine. Perfect for the summertime season of light outdoor meals and for a healthy lifestyle in general.

German Wines to be Tasted

2001 Weingut Reinhard & Beate Knebel Riesling QbA trocken, Winnigen, Mosel
This dynamic husband and wife team produces sensational wines from their small estate at Winnigen in the Lower Mosel. The legendary Ühlen and Rögen vineyards, with their unique terrassen, are considered the steepest in Europe. Optimal conditions for ripening, together with a generally milder climate than upstream, combine to produce wines with unique Mosel/Rheingau crossover character. Their wines are made entirely by hand at the estate and the results are stunning.

2001 Weingut Hermann Dönnhoff Norheimer Delchen Kabinett halbtrocken, Oberhause, Nahe
In Germany there is great winemaking and then there is Dönnhoff. Helmut Dönnhoff is one of Germany's all-time greatest vintners, and is at the height of his powers, in his absolute prime, so to speak in the 2001 vintage. This highest achievable excellence begins in his splendid vineyards, the most beautiful in the Nahe, and ends in his magical winery.

2001 Erben von Beulwitz Kasseler Nies'chen Kabinett #18, Mertesdorf, Ruwer
Kaseler Nies'chen may not be a household name to collectors of great Riesling, but it ought to be. The wines are characterized by a filigree, lacy consistency - the epitome of elegance in white wine. Herbert Weis' 2001s are definitive examples Ruwer Riesling.

2000 Weingut Peter Jacob Kühn Oestricher Lenchen Spätlese, Oestrich, Rheingau
These are golden times for Peter Kühn, the gifted winemaker from Oestrich in the Rheingau. (He has emerged as the unquestioned king of the last decade in this important region.) In the glass, his wines seem to be from another world. They exhibit a depth of flavor, a resonance, a life of their own, that quite honestly sets them apart from the competition. Never to rest on his laurels, Kühn's vintage 2000 selection may actually be amongst his best.

2001 Hans Lang Johann Maximilian Spätburgunder Barrique, Hattenheim, Rheingau
Hans Lang is on a relentless pursuit of quality. Though he is a man of many interests, from barrique Chardonnay to Riesling Eiswein, Lang is one of the most consistent we know. As a producer of some of the finest Spätburgunder in Germany, his careful use of barrique plays a part in this ripe, dark, and lovely wine, which is decidedly "new world" in style.

2000 Weingut Josef Rosch Leiwener Klostergarten Auslese, Leiwen, Mosel
This small producer in Leiwen is definitely the "rising star" of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. Werner Rosch is dedicated to working his sites to their ultimate potential. Each vineyard exhibits its unique quality of terroir in these lovely, elegant and well-defined Rieslings. His Auslesen, in particular, are always among the best ever seen from this region. The 2000s with their explosive unctuous fruit set in a gossamer frame are no exception.

Elizabeth Grubel of Dee Vine Wines
The wines presented will be discussed by Elizabeth Grubel of Dee Vine Wines. She grew up in the San Francisco Bay Area and graduated from Emory University. She was a Rotary exchange student for a year in the mid Rhone Valley where she first became interested in wine. Elizabeth returned to Montpellier for her junior year. Following graduation she began work at a winery outside of Atlanta. Upon return to the Bay Area she was employed by two wineries (Franciscan and Domaine Carneros) in the Napa Valley. After two years as a wine broker for an importer distributor she began helping to launch Dee Vine Wines thru the production of its first catalogue. She currently is the Manager and Associate Buyer for the business. For more information – call 1.877.DVW.WINE (389.9463) or e-mail elizabeth@dvw.com

Wild Ginger and The Triple Door

Since opening on July 29, 1989, Wild Ginger has set a new standard for Asian restaurants in the Northwest. Local and national food critics and Northwest residents have given Wild Ginger their top ratings, although the line of people waiting for a table on a busy weeknight is perhaps the best testament to the restaurant's outstanding reputation. After years of travel and research into traditional Asian cooking, owners Rick and Ann Yoder conceived the founding principles of Wild Ginger: fresh, quality products, cooked to order and served professionally in a casual atmosphere. It is a concept that is deceivingly simple, but involves a complex mixture of Asian cooking and Western service style. Executed with panache, these principles have made Wild Ginger a dining experience unparalleled in the Northwest. Wild Ginger has been reviewed or featured on top ten lists in national publications such as Gourmet, Bon Appetit, Atlantic Monthly, People, Conde Nast Traveler, Money Magazine, Forbes FYI and the New York Times.

The Triple Door, located below Wild Ginger, is a world-class music facility with an intimate 230-seat theater and musicquarium lounge. The best music happens live, artist and audience face-to-face. There is however no best kind of music. The Triple Door showcases acts from all over the Americas, Europe, Asia and, of course, the Pacific Northwest. Plus, it offers a wonderful amenity: superb food and beverage service while you enjoy the show. Offerings on the menu include the cuisines of the Mediterranean area and European-style desserts.

Tasting Menu Prepared by Wild Ginger

Chicken in Red Curry Sauce
A Southeast Asian dish with grilled chicken marinated in lemongrass, galangal, garlic, shallots, and chili's.

Pineapple Curry Prawn
Prawn sautéed with fresh turmeric, coconut milk, shallots and pineapple.

Wild Ginger Fragrant Duck
A house specialty. Succulent, fresh duck with a fragrant skin spiced with cinnamon and star anise. Accompanied by a steamed bun, Sichuan peppercorn salt and sweet plum sauce.

Almond Puff Pastry with Pears Poached in Riesling

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