Burgundy: Wines of Distinction

By Chad Zimmerman

Tasting Card • Burgundy Glossary

Aside from its historic past (over 1500 years), the red and white wines of Burgundy have captured the passion and pocketbooks of many as they are known for taking the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes to their ultimate heights. Wines here are measured in dozens rather than the thousands with little chance for a commodity market.

Villages differ in taste but so do the varied parcels that compose them as the soils and growing environment change with each and every step. One's Meursault Limozin therefore differs in taste, texture and behavior from its upper-slope cousin Narvaux.

Burgundy is the kingpin of distinction and discovery. Taste the individual differences of site and winemakers themselves. Learn why Chassagne is Chardonnay but Chardonnay will never be Chassagne!

Guy Bocard
Yields at Bocard are conservatively low, averaging 2½ tons per acre. Guy Bocard took over from his father in 1988, gradually increasing the amount bottled for himself. Lees stirring is not encouraged as the goal here is for a long malolactic fermentation and long, subtle marriage with the oak. “If you can taste the oak, then I’ve used too much,” says Guy. Limozin is a lieu-dit situated just below the Premier Cru of Les Genevrières.

Michel Coutoux
A Negoce Artisinale, Coutoux owns only a few vineyard parcels but uses his contacts (including his father-in-law Michel Niellon) to purchase grapes or must. Roughly half of this wine comes from the Puligny Premier Cru Les Referts, a vineyard that borders Meursault’s famous Premier Cru, Les Charmes. Only the fourth Burgundy vintage for Coutoux, the wine is raised in tank and sees no time in barrel, resulting in a fresh, almost electric style. It’s a superb demonstration of terroir taking precedence over grape variety.

Domaine Fernand et Laurent Pillot
Though vines at the Pillot estate average 40 years old, Laurent Pillot is a new name in Burgundy as his wines have been estate bottled only since 1990. Wines start in stainless steel and are then decanted into small oak barrels; weekly batonage (lees stirring) and extended contact give richness and structure. Chassagne, the town’s original name, later annexed its most important vineyard, Montrachet. Morgeot is Chassagne’s largest vineyard and one with the least slope.

Domaine Anne-Françoise Gros
From one of Burgundy’s most renowned families, Anne-Françoise Gros is the daughter of Jean Gros, granddaughter of Gustave Gros. She married François Parent of Domaine Parent, vigneron for both domains. Vosne-Romanée is perhaps Burgundy’s most celebrated wine village. The ‘99 wine comes from an upper portion of Maizières lieu-dit where Echezeaux is its immediate neighbor.

Domaine François Parent
The Parents have been making wine in Burgundy since 1630. Étienne Parent, François’ great ancestor, escorted Thomas Jefferson through Burgundy when he was Ambassador to France between 1784 and 1789, and some of the first wines served in the White House were Parent. Boucherottes is located just above Beaune Epenotes, bordering the more powerful Pommard appellation.

Domaine Jean-Marc Millot
A young and energetic vigneron who has not lost sight of Old World tradition and its methods, Millot is an artisan producer who works his vineyard by hand, organically farms, racks his wine but once and whose yield averages between 25 and 32 hectoliters per hectare — neo-Luddite if you will. He is a Burgundy newcomer, estate bottling his wines since 1990. There are no tractors at Domaine Millot as the soil between vines is turned via horse and plow. The Grand Cru Echezeaux at 93 acres is second only in size to Clos du Vougeot.

Chad Zimmerman, regional manager of New Castle Imports, was guest speaker for this program. Fluent in French, he once worked a Beaujolais harvest. He nurtured his unbridled enthusiasm for wine in restaurant, retail and wholesale environments in Kansas City, Missouri.

Clean Palate
Though the Burgundy region of France has a 1500-year reputation for producing the wine of royalty, it wasn't a menu pairing Queen Marie Antoinette had in mind with her famous admonition “Let them eat cake.”

At any rate, we’re saying no cake — nor any food flavors to distract the palate — at a fine Burgundy tasting.

“To fully appreciate French Burgundies and emphasize the delicate terroir flavors and aromas, it is best not to be distracted with extra tastes and textures of prepared foods,” explains Dieter Klippstein, owner of the Seattle distribution company Triage Wines.

And the finest of Burgundies were on the tasting card. Village, two premier cru, and a grand cru. Three of the wines retail for $40 a bottle, two for $48, and the grand is a grand $68.

Palate-cleansing crackers and breads, the only foods pro wine tasters would consider downing during a serious tasting of fine wines, were served.

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