John Sarich Showcases Chateau Ste. Michelle

By Kathy Ward

Tasting Card

To be world-class, you have to be internationally expansive, globally acclaimed. Chateau Ste. Michelle demonstrably fits this designation. Partnerships drawing on European winemaking expertise and a California connection, as well as all the accolades these and their Columbia Valley wines accumulate, write an impressive résumé for this local enterprise.

Seven-time winner of Wine & Spirits Wineries of the Year award, Ste. Michelle is the oldest existing one in the state. It began in 1934 as National Wine Company and Pommerelle, which merged to American Wine Growers. By the ‘50s they were planting their own vinifera grapes in the Columbia Valley. First varietal wines under the Ste. Michelle label appeared in ‘67.

In 1976, Ste. Michelle opened the doors of their charming French chateau building in Woodinville. Then entered our star, John Sarich. He began as a winery guide that summer, and his keen aptitude for wine and food pairing was quickly recognized. Soon he was cooking up classes in the historic Manor House on the grounds and sharing his enthusiasm with chefs along the Pacific Coast.

Fulfilling a dream of owning his own restaurant, John opened Adriatica in 1980, and later Dalmacja Ristoran in Pike Place Market. The Seattle Times listed him as one of the top five local chefs, and Esquire gave him national exposure as one of the country’s “hot new chefs.”

John returned to Ste. Michelle as Culinary Director in 1992 and for four years hosted the Emmy-nominated cooking show “Taste of the Northwest” in a specially designed kitchen at the winery. Cookbooks followed: “Food & Wine of the Pacific Northwest” and “For Cooks Who Love Wine.” His “Entertaining Simply” is a party-planning guide for cooks on a time budget.

The “Best of Taste, Flavors of the Pacific Coast” cookbook is also the name of John’s current show, which you can catch on KONG TV 6 Saturdays at 10:30 a.m. It’s taped on location at restaurants, wineries and resorts throughout the world. Shows have also been done on luxury yachts, cruise ships and even an aircraft carrier at sea.

His two-day adventure aboard the Everett-based USS Abraham Lincoln gave John an insight into serving 5,000 meals a day to a working crew. The gig included a helicopter ride to the carrier, and a flight home by a jet catapulted off the deck. John says this unique thrill was one of the most exciting experiences of his life.

In addition to a cooking demo, there’s always a story about the locale, people and regional foods on John’s TV shows. “I've traveled all over the United States and also to Singapore, Bangkok and Tokyo, and I see what’s developing in food trends in different locations,” he says, adding that he’ll share these journeying insights as guest speaker at the April program.

“For John, educating others about the joy of wine and food is not simply a job, it’s his driving passion,” notes the Web site (www.bestoftaste.com) where you can pick up his recipes and wine matching suggestions. Besides inspiring cooks and doing training seminars for wine and food professionals, he also works his magic on food courses for fund-raising events around the country.

Regarding his food choices for our April tasting card, John points out that both white wines go well with the appetizers. “By tasting them back-to-back, you can develop your own preferences and establish your personal palate. Tasting is totally subjective. That’s what pairing food and wines is all about.”

John says red wines are enhanced with foods. “All the [tasting card] reds go with the ossobuco-like stew so, again, you can make personal choices about preferences.” He also notes that sometimes food will drive the wine choice, or the wine may drive the food choice. It can go either way.

Making of the Wines
Ste. Michelle has put new winemakers at the helm in the interim since Mike Januik did our November ’98 program. White wines are made at the Woodinville chateau by Erik Olsen, reds by Ron Bunnell at their eastern Washington Canoe Ridge location. Other winemakers also are onboard for specialty wines.

Eric works with Dr. Ernst Loosen from the Mosel on the special Eroica Riesling, named for Beethoven’s Third Symphony. This German-American partnership using Washington grapes brings together Old World and New World winemaking craft. The two previous vintages received 91 points from Wine Spectator and were among their Top 100 wines.

Sampling the Eroica is especially significant in that it was 30 years ago this spring when the Ste. Michelle’s ‘72 Johannisberg Riesling was entered in a blind tasting of U.S. and world Rieslings. It topped the ratings and put our fledgling Washington wine industry on the international stage.

Eric’s Horse Heaven Sauvignon Blanc was mentioned on a Martha Stewart TV program as one of her favorites. Restaurant Wine also rates it a 4-star Excellent, and Wine Enthusiast gave it 90 points.

Another of Ste. Michelle’s unique winemaking partnership is with Tuscany's Marchesi Antinori, begun with a first Col Solare vintage in ‘95. Meaning “shining hill” as in sunny growing conditions, the ’98 Col Solare is from an outstanding year for Washington reds. It’s about two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon, a third Merlot, and a bit of Syrah. Wine Spectator gave it a 92, New York Times on the Web awarded 5 stars.

The Northstar Merlot has old and new ties. It’s from grapes of the Wahluke Slope, famed vineyards where some of the first Washington Merlot was grown, a varietal that became the hallmark of this region. In collaboration with Ste. Michelle’s Gordy Hill and California winemaker Jed Steele, Northstar began with the ‘94 vintage. (By the way, Jed will be guest speaker at our September program featuring his other wines.)

Northstar production will soon move into new facilities being built in Walla Walla just for this wine. Accolades for Northstar include 93 points by Wine Enthusiast, 92 from The Wine Advocate, with Robert Parker noting it as “Immensely impressive.” New York Times on the Web and Restaurant News both awarded 5 stars.

Conn Creek, a Stimson Lane property as is Ste. Michelle, produces the Anthology. It’s a Bordeaux varietal blend entirely from Napa Valley vineyards. The wine has earned scores in the 90s for each of its eight vintages, and the ‘97 won a Gold, Best of Class, and Best New World Red Meritage at last year’s New World International Wine Competition.

The tasting card also includes side-by-side Syrahs. The Ste. Michelle is an inaugural vintage of Columbia Valley Syrah made by Ron Bunnell. Doug Gore is winemaker for the ’99 Columbia Crest Reserve, produced from 20-year-old low crop yield vineyards. Wine News gave it 92 points, Spectator and Enthusiast each awarded 91.

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