Discover Genesis Wines,
Savor Anthony's Seafood

By Kathy Ward

Tasting Card • Anthony's

The Hogue Cellars is writing yet another chapter in the saga of Washington wines. Explore the latest direction this pioneer winery is taking to produce a new top-tier line called Genesis. Come taste and learn about these wines at the February program — a full six weeks before official release.

There's no better food match with classic Columbia Valley wines than Northwest seafood selections. Executive Chef Kelly Degala will prepare specialties of a consummate Seattle waterfront favorite, Anthony's Pier 66. Sample the best from this extensive restaurant enterprise.

The Hogue family has flourished in their strong regional roots. Patriarch Wayne Hogue began farming the Yakima Valley in the 1950s, mostly asparagus, hops, mint and juice grapes. He also was a long-time mayor of his hometown, Prosser. Sons Mike and Gary eventually turned their attention to growing wine grapes.

A Washington State University experimental viticultural station in Prosser provided the first scientific research indicating that vinifera grapes would do well in the climate and conditions of that region. Those initial grapevines pinpoint the origin, thus the genesis, of Hogue wines.

Described as the winemaker's playground, Genesis production is David Forsyth's arena. He revels in what he calls the winery's R & D lineup. "It's an opportunity to explore new vineyards, winemaking techniques and varieties." What you will discover in the wines, he adds, is "the breadth of winemaking styles we can make here in the Northwest, and the broad range there is within a variety."

David will be guest speaker for the program. He's an Eastern Washington native and, like many of his fellow winemakers, earned a master's degree in enology from the University of California at Davis and worked in the Napa Valley for a few years.

Returning to Washington to join Hogue in 1984, David became their winemaker four years later. He recently was named Winemaker of the Year by Los Angeles Times columnist Dan Berger. When not overseeing wine production, David combines an ardor for the slopes and the sky as a member of the U.S. Para-Ski Team.

Roots of the Wines

Grapes for Genesis wines are sourced from Hogue vineyards, as well as from many different sites throughout the Columbia Valley. Hogue initiated the practice of paying growers by the acre, rather than contracting by the ton, to reduce crop levels for higher quality fruit.

Some wines are special bottlings from grapes grown only for the Genesis label, others are blends from small vineyard lots. All are small-lot production, approximately 200 cases.

The line comes well dressed in distinctive claret-shape bottles, sealed with stealth-black synthetic corks, and a label series featuring a different artist-rendered "G" commissioned just for the wines.

The Genesis varietals will vary from vintage to vintage. Our program tasting card of 1999 releases includes a new look at some old favorites.

Whites in the collection all get barrel-fermented treatment. The Semillon is a savory step up from customary stainless steel production. A Gewürztraminer, one of the earliest varietals to turn national attention to Washington, gets sur lie aging as well. The Chardonnay comes from the sunny heart of the Yakima Valley.

Merlot, most know, is the signature red grape of Washington. Syrah is quickly gaining attention and enthusiasm. "Syrah has such great potential here in the Northwest," David notes. "We're sitting on the edge of something big. Wine consumers are ready for the taste and flavor of this variety."

Blue Franc? It's a Lemberger, the Washington specialty often compared to California's Zinfandel. How the Genesis version came to have this new moniker has to do with the Austrian name for the grape: blaufränkisch. Come hear the rest of the story — and more about this new line.

A-plus for Anthony's

Executive Chef Kelly Degala, Director of Culinary Development for Anthony's Restaurants, draws from several menus for our program food samplings. A mix of tangy Hawaiian tastes from his native Aloha State and delicate oriental flavors complement the Genesis collection of wines.

Several members of the Anthony's staff, including Chef Tony Ring of Anthony's Pier 66 and Bell Street Diner, are preparing savory fish and seafood appetizers with the added elegant finesse of delectable presentations. Especially interesting is the opportunity to compare the flavor of grilled salmon with a buttery Chardonnay as well as with a Merlot.

The Anthony's enterprise, a group of 15 restaurants located on 10 waterfront areas around Puget Sound, specializes in fresh Northwest seafood. And they do the fresh part well having their own exclusive wholesale seafood company.

In support of nurturing the local shellfish industry, Anthony's HomePort on Shilshole Bay hosts an annual Oyster Olympics with the Puget Soundkeeper Alliance.

Anthony's commitment to the Northwest is also evident in the number of Washington vintages they feature on house wine lists.

Click here to see a list of past Seattle Programs