Wine In My Kitchen: Cooking and Reading Everyday

Wine with Red Fish

By Karen Tripson

David Rosengarten may have been the first to pen the phrase "Red Wine with Fish" to shock gourmands into paying attention to his 1989 book of that title. Now worth an astonishing $65 to $102, used, at amazon.com due more than anything else to a first and only tiny print run, the unsung hero is co-author Joshua Wesson, wine consultant and wine shop owner. Get the value of the wine recommendations by that duo at a discount price on many bargain tables, in a copy of "Home Bistro” by Betty Fussell. But northwest natives have known for a long time that our famous red fish pairs beautifully with the local red wine. Luckily for us, there's a lot of local red wine to choose from these days.

Merlot, Syrah, or Cabernet Sauvignon

Eating lots of red fish over time leads to the opportunity of enjoying it with regional Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese or even Cabernet Sauvignon. They work so well together because the salmon has a high fat content that translates into a rich, meaty, sweet result when grilled or roasted that has more in common with other red meats that are traditionally paired with red wines. Once accustomed to drinking red wine with salmon, it's an easy segue to red wine with other fish. Your taste buds may find some delicate preparations overpowered by a big red wine. The reverse happens when a delicate pinot blanc turns to water served with a charred salmon steak. As with all food and wine pairings, you are the final judge not only of what tastes good, but what tastes good together.

If you imagine the extremes of the food and wine pairing rules as beginning with an expertly matched varietal and vintage to a specific recipe for salmon, then the middle ground may be a recent judge at the NW Wine Festival, who despite his vast professional experience, makes no bones that at home he drinks Chateauneuf-du-Pape with everything. The far side of the spectrum of the pairing issue may be that just about any wine tastes good with fish because wine makes food taste better.

What if home alone with a Syrah? Sauté in olive oil over medium heat and finish with a quick sauce made from deglazing the pan with a big splash of the serving wine.

A Sangiovese calls for a little red sauce to garnish the fish, classic Italian or all American BBQ. If a Cabernet Sauvignon were the only bottle in the house, I'd put on my raincoat and fire up the grill.