Wine in My Kitchen

by Karen Tripson

Northwest Icons of Food, Wine and Spirit:

Pike Place Market Cookbook by Braiden Rex-Johnson
Northwest Wine Guide by Andy Perdue

Between the Space Needle, Mount Rainer and the Pike Place Market, Seattle has more icons than most cities. But the Market isn't a drive-by or viewed from afar. You've got to walk through it whether you hate crowds or not. It's a physical and emotional experience to be buffeted by the masses. It's stimulating. To anyone who has embraced food and cooking as entertainment or profession, it's a wing ding bell-ringer of a visual. You may have learned about exotic items on Food Television but most supermarket shoppers just haven't seen that much fresh fish in their lives. Even food magazines don't exactly prepare you for how sensual wild mushrooms are in the flesh, how velvety and gold and soft. I watch the first timers going through and totally understand why they keep saying, "look, look, look, do you see that?"

Braiden Rex-Johnson chronicled the Market ten years ago and the new and improved edition of the Pike Place Market Cookbook is a great souvenir of Seattle for tourists and a great guide for locals. No matter how often, or seldom, you shop at the market for lettuce or a big fish, you probably couldn't pry the history of the stall from the vendors because they are too busy to tell it. Here's your opportunity to learn the lore. There's plenty of pathos and drama here, hard work and tough times, good luck and terrible misfortune. What would you expect out of hundreds of families over the last century? It's a good read. The people, like Seattle, are resilient.

The Recipe Collection
The collection of recipes is eclectic: high, low and all the styles in between. There are signature dishes, and throw-aways. I hoped for something terrific from my favorite vegetable seller, Sosio, but was disappointed by his suggestion to broil tomatoes with cheese and Mrs. Dash. Equally disappointing was Campagne contributing the tasty and popular lamb burger from Café Campagne—I could have figured that out for myself. I was hoping for something more precious and challenging-—maybe the cassoulet recipe or one of the extraordinary soups that appear in the Café or upstairs in Campagne.

Bonus Restaurants
A surprise is how many famous restaurants that aren't in the Market are included. Inspired by the Market or associated somehow, means as far away as the Herb Farm, which used to be quite far away. But the inclusive spirit is generous, as are the chefs' fundraising exhibitions for the Market that create their link to the book. The surprises really are a bonus for everyone.

Four Winners Right off the Bat
So far I've only cooked a few things but the picking was fun and will provide me with plenty more entertainment. I put together a simple Sunday summer dinner for four that was easy on me. The Prawns Aglio from Il Bistro thrilled three out of four. The Barbecued Salmon, which had no sauce, from the guys who throw fish elicited "I like this because you can taste the fish." As the host, I liked the "book filleted" or butterflied fish for speedy cooking on the grill or in the oven and nice presentation at the table. I predict that the Triple Blue Summer Salad from Canter-Berry Farms will be one of the star recipes that keeps this collection chugging in bookstores for years to come. It's different, it's bold, it's easy, it's no fat, it's delicious. (Last but not least: Nutrition freaks/experts are going nuts over blueberries as the new brain food.) Farmed blueberries had to substitute for wild urban blackberries in a pie for the finale, but got exactly the response you would expect—a seated ovation.

Regional Wines are Something to Shout About

As the founder and editor of the Wine Press Northwest, Andy Perdue has a good perspective on our region's wines over time and a huge tasting experience. His approach suits me perfectly: "The joy is in the glass, and while it's easy to spend a lot of money on this passion, it isn't a necessity."

As a bargain hunter by necessity, I like having a pocket reference that helps you make decisions when opportunity presents itself. If Andy Perdue says he liked it that may make all the difference in buying a case instead of trying one bottle. It's not always there when you go back.

Syrah, My First Choice
Syrah and the Rhone-style wines are favorites because they are good table wines that can always be had at a reasonable price. I drink them with everything. My favorite style and the best value is from France, but I enjoy the fruitier Washington style too. A favorite everyday wine around my house is Snoqualmie Syrah. (Their cab-merlot is also a great value.)

I tested the Northwest Wine Guide on my favorite subject. It says that syrah is beginning to define the region and predicts it may be the best red grape for the region. Well, nicely said, Andy! We who know it best are impressed with Northwest wines and it is very cool to have the rest of the world starting to take notice and agree.

The Enological Society has a 29-year tradition of bringing in outside judges to expose them to our special region. Don't miss the 29th Annual NW Wine & Food Festival on August 2, 2003.

Book buyers and sellers please contact: Sasquatch Books 1-800-775-0817.