By Karen Tripson

Entertaining: Harvest Extravaganza

My kindred spirits over at Hatch Cellars are great cooks in addition to their skill at nurturing the wine cellar. Imagine how I felt when they called recently to say the farmer's market at the UW is peaking with seasonal produce -- you've got to come over and eat. This type of cooking / eating experience is personal artistry, the tangible product of a creative experience that's transitory, but no less meaningful for being brief. One moment you're mesmerized standing in front of wooden crates overflowing with yellow bell peppers, heirloom tomatoes, pumpkins and squashes. The next moment all your systems are engaged in something sort of physical and sort of electrical that has got to find an outlet.

The bright harvest colors and the abundance create their own alchemy that's totally different than the first green peas of spring. In other seasons, I ponder about what I might do with a pinch or a handful to add depth or texture. But with harvest excess, you have a pound of luxurious flavors to work with. Like wine, there is no right answer, just a personal response. Here's a well thought out menu that must have been very fun to create and pair with wines that made every delicious bite better.

Tasting Notes
Soup: The bell pepper soup was delicate and pure in the aroma and taste of yellow peppers. The Pinot Gris was a refreshing tart contrast to the sweetness of the soup; an oaky Sauvignon Blanc or Sémillon would have clobbered this soup.

Risotto: The cook says of the risotto, "If you typically add a quarter of a pound of wild mushrooms, this version had three times as many chanterelles and just a little leek and vermouth added to the chicken stock plus a small amount of Romano cheese, not Parmesan. The risotto was rich and hearty enough to have been made with beef stock. (My friends are Burgundy lovers who make risotto a lot because it's so great with the grape and we decided this particular risotto would be the perfect foil for a big tasting of regional pinot noirs to be held in the future.) Although the Burgundy by Maurice Ecard et Fils seemed perfect in every way a glass of wine can, you could support the Northwest regional alternatives such as an Erath 1999 Pinot Noir Reserve or 1999 Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir.

Veal: Veal is a good canvas for wine tasting and a grilled chop is king as nothing obscures the sweet meat slightly charred. The Cabernet Franc (from the urban Seattle Owen Sullivan Winery) was well balanced, fruity, not tannic, slightly smoky like the meat and had an nice finish. The flavor and the staying power enhanced the chops and vegetables. This is the second time I've run into grape chutney recently and I think it must be the condiment of the moment. It certainly adds another sweet grape note that is interesting with the wine. Try it also with cheese and crackers.

Tart: Patricia Wells' "Bistro Cooking" inspired these Bosc pears caramelized in butter and sugar until dark brown before a pastry top was added. Essence of raisins in the best sort of way was one descriptive impression of the Muscat served with the tart. I can imagine enjoying this dessert wine with any baked fruit. Value seekers take note of this Yalumba Muscat, which is an extremely reasonable choice at less than $20 a half bottle, in the Australian unfortified dessert category.