PROVENCE - A Land of Lasting Impressions
Come join the Enological Society for a chance to
discover all that is wonderful about the south of France known as
Provence. All of the essential ingredients such as classic dishes,
artisanal wines, crafts and colors unique to this charming area
will set the stage. Everyone has their own idea of what this region
is all about, but this event promises to be an eye/palate-opener!
The cuisine of Provence is laced with natural, regional
ingredients. The line dividing Provence from the rest of France
is less a geographic boundary than a culinary one. (Butter country
gives way to olive oil somewhere south of Lyon.) Having mentioned
olive oil, we move on to other essential foods and flavors that
will make up the event menu created by talented chefs at Lowell
- Hunt. Lamb, olives, garlic, seafood, herbs, cheeses, vegetables
and rustic breads round out the delicious offerings.
The wines we will have are
something to really get excited about! We have wines from a
great group of ground-breaking, exciting producers. Their work is
resulting in some of the highest quality, good value wines that
are brought to this country in limited quantities. There is an area
around Marseilles called Bouches-du-Rhone (mouth of the Rhone) and
northwest of it is a crescent of land dotted with small producers
who make great wines utilizing several grape varieties. Moving east
we gather a few more wines to round out the growing areas and varieties
planted.
Serious Country Wines
One very important facet of the wine business is the importers and
those dedicated to working with the producers and their land to
create the best wines possible. Open for tasting will be a number
of wines from the Robert
Kacher Selections portfolio. Over 30 years ago Bobby became
enamored of this remote corner of France not especially known for
fine wine producing. His goal was to associate himself with growers
and producers that possessed both the passion and the energy to
strive to become some of the most renowned winemakers in France.
Now hailed by the wine writers, these wines have come into their
own.
In the winery, these select producers use a blend of new and old
techniques to preserve the outstanding fruit obtained from all their
hard work in the vineyards. These techniques include the use of
gravity to move juice from tank to barrel instead of pumping. State
of the art presses for gentle extraction of juice, temperature-controlled
fermentation with the use of natural yeasts, extended skin contact
when possible (to enhance aromatics and intensify flavors), barrel
aging for select wines to add to their complexity, and bottling
wines without the use of clarification or filtration whenever possible.
Exciting producers, all are on the cutting edge
of innovation and produce some of the highest quality wines in the
Gard. These, wonderful people have great stories and a lot of soul
behind them. Diane Puymorin stands out because she works completely
without chemicals and is a serious biodynamic farmer. Jean-Louis
Emmanuel of Domaine St. Antoine is known for having the best fruit
in all of the Costieres and makes some of the best olive oil to
be found in all of the Rhone.
Chateau de Campuget
has been owned by the Dalle family since 1941, and they have some
of the oldest vines in the Costieres de Nimes and have not used
chemicals for over 40 years. (This estate has an ancient Roman well,
and ruins of a villa 20 centuries old. The present castle dates
back to the 17th century, with the 'modern wing' built during 1740-1870.
Silk production was the main industry during the 19th century at
Campuget until the Far Eastern silk trade put the French out of
business.) Cyril Mares of Mas des Bressades comes from Bordeaux.
His great grandfather found the cure for odium rot, and his family
still produces wine in the Haut-Medoc. The one thing all these producers
have in common is that they produce wine at half the level that
is allowed in this region (40-50 hectoliters/hectare, when 90 is
allowed). Bobby and all these producers work with the husband and
wife team of enologists, Alain and Maryse Demezon.
Wines from other highly esteemed importers and producers
are also on the tasting card. We cannot fail to mention Kermit Lynch,
who has established an international reputation for excellence and
uncompromising standards in the wines he offers to the market. Kermit
spends part of each year at his French home base in Provence, from
which he keeps an eye on his producers and lots of wine he has personally
culled from each vintage.
For the Syrah lovers, there will be a few bottlings made with 100%
Syrah. Try these against some of the Cabernet or Mourvedre blends
for contrast. But, remember, these wines are only available to the
ticket holders who purchase in advance. Oh - and if you should to
wish to purchase any of these wines - we make that easy by offering
them for sale that very night. A bientôt!
Stephanie Ninaud
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